15 East 15 E. 15th St. (Union Sq. W. & 5th Ave.)
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This place is about as serene and solemn as the temple on Mount Fuji. You would think it was a yoga retreat instead of a sushi joint: The savvy customer, which includes the well-heeled Union Square execs, will devote attention not only to seafood but to the unusually hefty selection of sake they serve with it. You might have to duke it out with a raw fish fanatic to get a seat at the bar, but once you're in there, you can feast on a five-page list of various rice wines. Try both warm and cold (different types are served at varying temperatures) as well as the seasonal sakes. So far, the big showstopper is the unfiltered variety. Just like the good old Lucky Strikes of yore, this baby packs a tasty and powerful punch. Open Mon.-Fri. 11:45am-2pm and 6-10:30pm, Sat. 6-10:30pm.