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Bellwether - CLOSED: THIS VENUE HAS CLOSED.
Trying to fill the McCarren Park Pool Party-shaped hole in hipster hearts comes Bellwether, the newest North Brooklyn venture by husband-wife team Josh Cohen and Blair Papagni. The prolific duo, behind recent Greenpoint joints St. Vitus and Calyer, takes a cue from the swimming-pool-cum-performance-space-turned-dodgeball-playground with a hyper-hyphenated spot of their own, turning the old Royal Oak space into a late-night lounge, wrapped in a raw bar, surrounded by a teal-tinted gastropub. Between the much-touted sound system, DJ sets spun by the No Ordinary Monkey crew, an eclectic menu of shucked shellfish and small plates, and a bar program highlighting creative cocktails, natural wines and microbrews, there’s a whole lot going on at Bellwether…and that’s not to say it all works. The digs are darn pretty, all warm woods, white walls and teal-colored bar and banquettes, and the ‘tails are tasty, like the delicately sweet “Good Girl” (gin, quince, lemon, egg white and maraschino liquor, $10), but with Blue Points at—wait for it—$8 and super-small plates at decidedly large prices, like the Lilliputian hanger steak (with tomato jam, caramelized onion, bone marrow and crispy potato confit, $24), you’ll be mourning the loss of those Pool Party freebies all over again.
Reviewed 2/23/12
Photo credit: grubstreet.com |