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Brasserie Beaumarchais: Remember those wild brunches at Bagatelle where girls wore sequin dresses and partied like it was Saturday after midnight and not midday? Well the name may have changed to Brasserie Beaumarchais, but show up in time for “Le Grand Brunch,” and you’ll see that little else has. If you can get past the ego-tripping bouncer (whether you have a reservation or not), you too can dance on your chair amongst an uber-Euro crowd as the crystal chandeliers flicker in time to ultra-loud dance music. Dishes like Gnocchi a la Parisienne ($26) and Eggs Beaumarchais (eggs benedict with spinach, smoked salmon and paddlefish caviar, $21) are quite good, but the festive-minded patrons are more interested in what’s on the cocktail menu. Bottles of booze arrive at tables with sparklers, though anyone looking for a specialty cocktail may opt for “La Douceur”—amaretto, cucumber and Moet & Chandon, $17 or “Decadence”—an over-sized libation of Belvedere, St-Germain, simple syrup, strawberry puree and Dom Perignon Magnum, priced at a decadent $2,200. Just don’t expect prompt service—waiters are often too busy dancing with neighboring tables to refill your glass. It’s not for everyone, but if you’re a firm believer that it’s 5 o’clock (er, midnight) somewhere, it’s a grand-old time.
Reviewed: 4/9/2011
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