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Buschenschank: While Buschenschank claims to be an Italian-inspired spot, the Bavarian bar menu and the lederhosened hostess that greets you at the door say otherwise. Sure, it's based on the wine taverns found in northern Italy's Alto Adige region, but this decidedly rustic den is all Deutschland. Long communal tables, exposed brick and a flickering fireplace give off a warm gemütlichkeit (a.k.a. cozy) feel. The dark wood wraparound bar pours out pints (and yes, Das Boots) of largely German brews, from dopplebocks to dunkels. Save for some seemingly incongruous pizza options (owner James McGown also runs South Brooklyn Pizza), the food menu matches the bar’s Germanic leanings, boasting Bavarian bites like house-made pretzels with bier cheese ($7), a variety of wursts ($8), and fresh knödel (German dumplings, $6). The menu’s only attempt at cultural fusion is the Hohenzug pizza, a white pie topped with schinkenspeck, caramelized apples and chives ($12). It’s a good start, but Buschenschank would be heaps more interesting with more culinary cultural overlap. After all, Brooklyn’s already brimming with Bavarian beer bars that have done it before (and better), but what the borough doesn’t have is Wiener schnitzel parmigiana, knödel gnocchi, or spaghetti and bratwurst meatballs. Better get on that, Buschenschank.
Reviewed: 12/7/11 |
