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Caffe Storico: Philly impresario Stephen Starr’s new Italian joint is situated in the New York Historical Society museum on the Upper West Side, but it’s less stuffy and not as anachronistic as one might imagine. Stark white and airy, almost like a hospital, the restaurant focuses on, luckily, (non-hospital-cafeteria) North Italian small plates like wild mushroom risotto ($18) and veal tartare ($13). There are a few larger selections like roasted sea bass ($28) and NY strip ($38) if you’re famished. The spot is chic but casual, upscale but welcoming, with a young, well-dressed staff (in Chuck Taylor’s no less!) and an “older person” clientele happy to spend a little loot on lunch. Unfortunately, no one's getting tanked here, though with over 50 wines, and 20 by the glass ($9-14), there’s ample opportunity. A fully stocked bar, some signature cocktails ($12) and a nice dessert menu (amaretto semifreddo, $8) round things out. If you have to spend a day in a museum, you could do worse—just don’t forget to give your servers a nice little “donation.”
Reviewed: 1/9/2012
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