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Thankfully, the brain trust behind Lure Fishbar and MercBar is at it again. And though Chinatown Brasserie is less earth-shattering, the former Fez is an instant sensation with both uptowners looking for a downtown experience and downtowners looking for something more chic than shabby. Upstairs, a crowded and slightly impersonal dining area serves up excellent Peking duck and dim sum, but proves generic items like General Tso’s chicken have inherent limitations. A pool of koi fish introduces diners to the sultry subterranean space that’s considerably more swanky, but begging for DJs and promoters. Right now, however, CB’s proprietors seem intent on establishing it as a cozy alternative to the top floor’s more “community-oriented” confines. In short, this is Spice Market East meets Ruby Foo’s.