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Empellon: Empellon means “push,” and once word is out on the so-named West Village newcomer, that’s exactly what you’ll have to do just to get in the door. Formerly Chow Bar, Empellon is serving up Mexican cuisine from Executive Chef Alex Stupak in two dining rooms significantly nicer than your average taqueria. Rustic chandeliers and a mural of deep reds warm the predominantly black and white space, though nothing warms your insides quite like tequila from the extensive selection. Those who prefer not to take it straight may opt for the Empelloma (a take on the classic Paloma, combining Silver or Reposado, house-made grapefruit soda and smoked salt, $12) or the Drunk Monk (Reposado, green chartreuse, egg white and hoja santa, $13). The loudly laughing and chatting crowd starts filing in straight from the office, though weekend revelers are rewarded with $5 tacos if they stay late (Friday and Saturday from midnight to 1:45am). This may not be your padre’s restaurant, but when empellon comes to shove, odds are he’ll like it all the same.
Reviewed: 5/14/2011
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