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Fort Defiance: This Red Hook stronghold seems to be having a bit of an identity crisis. Is it a bar or a café? Would you like a Tom Collins or a homemade soda? And is this middle-of-nowhere Brooklyn or a French outpost in South America? Even the hours (below) are all over the place. In other words, the Fort defiantly marches to its own drummer. But it can get away with doing so, as owner St. John Frizell (ex-Pegu Club mixologist) has concocted a cocktail list stockpiled with expertly-crafted classics. Once you arrive, take an (old) stool at the (new) bar and sip your Collins ($8) or a Prescription Julep ($10). As for food, are you in the mood for Muffuletta or an Asparagus Sandwich? Not so much? Okay, there are more tried-and-true options here as well, like meats and cheeses ($4-5), and plenty of wines ($8-12) to knock ‘em back with. You get the idea: Next time you’re in Red Hook and are craving, well, just about anything, plan a raid on this Fort. Open 7 am, M-F, 8 am, Sa-Su. Closed after lunch, 2.30-5.30, M-F. Closed for the night at midnight, Su-M, W-Th, 2 am F-Sa. Does not re-open after lunch on Tuesdays.