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Jolie Cantina: The south of France meets south of the border with the aptly named Jolie Cantina, a new Smith Street spot that fuses French and Mexican fare. The pairing may seem un poco étrange, but French owner Benjamin Tretour and Mexican chef Eliseo Gonzaga meld the flavors of their respective homelands in surprisingly interesting and inspired ways. Some dishes on the extensive menu keep more to one cuisine or the other, like the ravioles du Royan ($12) or carnitas tacos (two for $10), but the memorable ones are the mash-ups. Settle into a soft graphite-upholstered banquette for the steak tartare, marinated in tequila and pickled jalapenos ($11), octopus Provencal ceviche ($9), and the so-good-it’s-loco duck confit enchiladas topped with black bean quenelle and queso fresco ($15). If you’re worried about overly kitschy décor, don’t fret—there are no can-can girls sporting sombreros to be found in this charming, cozy cantina. Instead, there’s local art lining the walls, warm red accents, a laid-back vibe and, best of all, a zinc-topped bar serving up some seriously tasty sangria ($7). So whether you’re craving Comté or cemitas, say oui (or si!) to Jolie Cantina.
Reviewed: 10/15/11 |