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King: Since SoHo is getting as touristy as Times Square (damn you, DASH!), it's nice to see a serene tippling spot sans shopping-bag-laden sight-seers donning I <3 NEW YORK shirts. Refreshingly, it's the royal treatment you'll get at King, and since the place is on King St. it rightfully lays claim to its crown. Upon entry, fall back a few centuries with furnishings like tufted black booths, candlelit tables, a massive Medieval chandelier, and a blue-and-gold-wallpapered corridor...complete with a complimentary coat-check (don’t you just feel that tiara?). Dine on fit-for-the-palace plates by chef Francis Derby (wd~50, Tailor and Momofuku alumn), from small stuff like Deviled Egg Toast ($6) and Squash Soup (chamomile, pumpkin seed and spice bread, $10), to entrees like Borchot Mussels (beer, kale and garlic bread, $18) and Hanger Steak (hassleback potatoes, escarole and bone marrow dressing, $26), to desserts like the Salted Caramel Crème Brulee ($8). Relax amongst the bespectacled, smartly-dressed crowd as mixologist Pamela Wiznitzer creates cocktails like His Majesty (Ransom Gin, Purity Vodka, Lillet Blanc and orange bitters, $13), brought out by at-your-service wait staff (there’s a champagne call button if you’re feeling super-fancy, but even the beer selections are classy, $6-11). Whether you’ve got the equivalent of a modern-day, er, krown like the Kardashes or you’re just posing as a prince a la Aladdin to impress your potential princess, the place’s completely reasonable prices and aforementioned romantic atmosphere make it perfect for your amour.
Reviewed 1/19/12 |
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