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Kutsher's Tribeca: You won’t find Baby and Johnny at new downtown den Kutsher’s Tribeca, but you’ll still get a nostalgic touch of the Catskills. The Jewish-American bistro is an outpost of famed Catskills resort Kutsher’s Country Club, a classic of the Borscht Belt and believed-to-be inspiration for Dirty Dancing. Owner Zach Kutsher pays homage to his namesake with trendy takes on familiar favorites, serving up Sephardic staples to the, er, un-gefilted. Upscale apps include crispy latkes topped with a trio of caviar ($18), quinoa varnishkes ($9) and wild halibut gefilte fish ($12). Still chaleshen after all that? Feast on falafel-crusted salmon ($23), fresh ricotta kreplach ($19), or a “Friday Night Roast Chicken” for two with pletzel and maitake ($38). Wash it down with one of the bar’s nostalgic potables (all $12), like the “Bungalow Bunny” (gin, muddled lime and mint, blueberry-lime cordial and smoked bitters) or “Bug Juice” (vodka, house-made fruit punch, grapefruit bitters and soda, served in a mason jar). The décor reflects retro reverence with marble “picnic tables,” pop art posters, and blond-wood paneling, but the leather banquettes, orb fixtures and clean, modern design keep Kutsher’s sophisticated, not schmaltzy. Sure, the prices are a lot for a latke, but with the culinary chutzpah of this stylish spot, one thing’s clear—nobody puts Kutsher’s in a corner.
Reviewed: 11/28/11 |
