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La Mar Cebicheria Peruana: Madison Square Park gets a piece of Peru with La Mar Cebicheria, the first New York location of Gaston Acurio’s high-end international chain. The Peruvian pull permeates every facet of this swank seafood shrine, from the cocktails to the cuisine. The stylish bar is stocked with pisco, a Peruvian brandy, the base of almost all of La Mar’s pricey cocktails. The “cholopolitan” (pisco, cranberry and maracuyá, $14) is tart and tasty, but the potent “pisco punch” (pisco alohado, lemon juice and pineapple syrup, $15) could put hair on your chest. For the more faint-hearted, there’s a selection of Peruvian beers ($8), as well as South American and Spanish wines. Skip the overpriced main courses and stick to the savory small plates. There’s blue shrimp in a crispy sweet potato crust ($14), empanadas with mashed avocado and ocopa sauce ($14), and the tiraditos (Peruvian-style sashimi), like the wild salmon belly with cilantro ($17). Most importantly, there’s ceviche. For $24, try a tasting trio of citrus-cured ceviches, like the warm water fluke with corn and yam. La Mar’s premium Peruvian comes at a price, but the superb ceviches are worth every precious penny.
Reviewed 9/21/2011 |
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