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Lilium: Late-night vamps rejoice—there’s new blood in town, and you'll want to sink your teeth right in. Burrowed beneath the W Union Square in the space formerly housing Underbar, new subterranean spot Lilium is a sexy, stylish lair for creatures of the night. Designed by Icelandic import Gulla Jonsdottir, the basement bar gets a goth makeover, boasting black banquettes, a cavernous metal ceiling, steel lily sculptures, and lighting so moody you’d think Morrissey was hiding out in a corner. The dark décor and rock 'n’ roll DJs may scream downtown, but one peep at the menu quickly reminds you that you’re at the W. Deep-pocketed drinkers can put away pricey but tasty potables, from cocktails like the Grassy Kroll (vodka, muddled ginger and lemongrass, $14) and the Gin Blossom (gin, raspberry syrup, egg white and lemon juice, $14), to small batch spirits primed and ready for the shot glass. Soak up the booze with standard small plates and snacks courtesy of Todd English, like parmesan fries ($9), maitake-mushroom tempura ($12) and a few vaguely Mediterranean flatbreads ($14). From the brains behind Whiskey Park and The Living Room, this seductive spot is faced with the arduous task of making Union Square cool. Whether Lilium succeeds or not is too soon to tell, but it sure as hell will look hot trying.
Reviewed 12/13/11 |