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Little Town Restaurant Row: In the former home of Village Pourhouse's beer-ponging, frat-boy-guzzling glory, Little Town has taken over with a second location. Just like its big sib (Little Town Gramercy), the menu was inspired by fare across New York State (think: Albany, Binghamton, Ithaca...all those alleged "cities" you don't want to live in) after the owners set out on a road trip in search of small-town America gems. There are some hits, like the toasted goat cheese and honey ($8) and some misses like the pretzel-crusted chicken fingers ($10), but your best bet is probably to forsake your Manhattan-sourced skinny jeans for their locally sourced from New York State (like everything on the menu), high-brow "Garbage Plate"—a Rochester-native dish that boasts an artery-blocking mountain of tater tots topped with macaroni salad, baked beans, two cheeseburgers, onions, mustard horseradish and spicy chili ($28, serves 2). Their extensive beer list keeps the Empire State theme going strong with brews like Olde Saratoga ($6) and Captain Lawrence Liquid Gold ($6) on offer. While the cozy ambiance dotted with New York memorabilia and the generous $2-3 tastes of drafts seems promising and removed from Times Square outside, the place still lacks the most important thing of all—that good ol' small-town hospitality.
Reviewed 3/14/12
Photo credit: Shaun Pazel |