Mulberry Project 149 Mulberry St Hester and Grand Sts.
Little Italy
646.448.4536
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Mulberry Project:
Unmarked door! Small plates! Speakeasy! Porkbelly! Fresh ingredients! Local! Local! Local! Little Italy's basement-level Mulberry Project (it's called a project because it's evolving, duh) is packaging all of NYC hospitality's current buzzwords into a single 400 square foot space. The shiny, dark little spot’s black leather booths and blood-red-and-mirrored walls are definitely more Russian mafia than flapper fancy, though the SoHo-chic crowd leans more toward the latter. The bartenders (bringing along Milk & Honey and Death & Co. cred), are quick to remind you that they are “bespoke” (translation: menus are so 2010), so select a fresh fruit off the blackboard and your choice of booze; your ensuing cocktail ($12) is certain to please. Thankfully, you are not asked to choose an animal and a vegetable—an actual food menu offers simple but tasty bites like truffle fries ($6) and braised short rib sliders ($13). And while dens of this type are ubiquitous these days, The Mulberry Project plants its roots on an uber-touristy block, where its unmarked door stands in welcome contrast to its neighbors’ solicitous ways.
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