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New York Central: A trip through Grand Central Terminal during rush hour is enough to drive anyone to drink. Fortunately, one floor above 42nd street in the Grand Hyatt Hotel, a 6,000 sq. ft. restaurant/lounge filled with leather-and-metal banquettes and a long, curved bar offers emotional, if not financial, respite. The four separate sections are cohesively framed by metallic wall sculptures and glitter, resulting in a whiteness that's like wintertime in Narnia. All of the goodies are surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the chaotic streets. Rejoin a slightly calmer crowd at the bar, or replenish with Brown Butter Risotto ($22) or a nibble of Foie Gras Tourchon ($18) in the restaurant. For those who can't even bear interaction with a server, a wine "library" allows you to self-serve a taste, half or full glass from a selection of (mostly high-end) wines by way of a pre-paid card. One glance down at the harried, cursing faces rushing past and suddenly, $20 for a half-glass of wine seems totally worth it. |