Pastis 9 9th Ave. (@ Little W. 12th St.)
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Keith McNally owns a lot of stuff. No disrespect to SoHo’s Balthazar or Pravda, but this is probably his most famous property. This clever brasserie was here when the Meatpacking District was actually used for meatpacking and it hasn’t changed much since. Steak frites and similar standard French fare are prepped with care and served with indifference to a crowd that’s as suburban on weekends as it is urban chic during the week. Distressed mirrors and bare wood floors add to a charmingly weathered aesthetic that lies in implying Pastis has been here for a hundred years. Then again, in this ever-changing neighborhood, Pastis could be considered a landmark.