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Permanent Brunch: A small, stylish spot dedicated to what remains of New York’s leisure class, you'd best visit Permanent Brunch while it’s hip to do so, otherwise there may be no point. Like a McSweeney’s take on T.G.I.Friday’s kitsch, this place offers the inevitable soundtrack of 80s hits in the background and subway paraphenlia on the walls. Foodwise, Permanent Brunch is the sort of place that unabashedly charges $4 for a biscuit. Anyway, it’s a good biscuit, and the warm smiles of the attractive staff almost make it seem like a deal. This is the story across the board; you pay about twice as much as you should to get half as much as you want, although most of the food is pretty tasty…especially if you like the taste of salt. And since it’s not brunch without a Bloody Mary, $10 gets you their spicy (and did we mention salty?) version of the drink, with a shrimp ridin’ shotgun. Still, the whole thing’s pretty damn ersatz as far as brunching goes (artisinal bacon, anyone?) and we predict that even the restaurant's moniker won't keep the appeal permanent.
Photos: Victoria Jacob |
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