Tepito 228 1st Ave. @ 14th St.
East Village
212.777.7980
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Tepito:
Mexican cuisine doesn’t always tend toward the cutting edge (see Taco Bell’s double-decker supreme baja whatever), but that’s all the more reason to take pause when a “modern” Mexican spot announces itself. In the wake of Alex Stupak’s success with Empellon, Chef Adrian Ramirez changes it up by dropping some Italian and French accents into his mix—and actually pulls it off. Avant-garde dishes include stuff like gulf crab guacamole with mango chipotle aioili ($12), a mahi mahi BLT ($15), and the grilled ribeye with melted chihuahua cheese ($16). The ambiance here is sleek and modern, more befitting a Meatpacking French spot than an East Village taqueria. The tequila list is ample and carefully divided into blanco, resposado and anejo ($8-$16) with plenty of intriguing tequila-based cocktail options if you can’t handle your aqua vitae neat ($8-$11). A small wine and bland beer list round out the tippling choices, or one could just stick with such desserts as a Patron tequila tres leches ($6). Taco Bell, eat your heart out.