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The Pan American: After a fire squelched this resto’s opening gusto last March, owner Fernando Riquelme has re-opened with a new chef, a new menu and the same old reason to stop by and visit: escapism. Enter his tiny Nolita nook and you’ll immediately be disoriented…is this Caracas? Rio? South Beach? It doesn’t matter—you’re officially on vacation. Sleek lines, turquoise walls and tropically-toned LEDs assure you’ll be out of the New York State of Mind and into ignoring the hordes of window-shoppers on Mott even before your appetizer comes. And when it does, oh boy—whether you opt for the farm-cheese-stuffed, blue-corn-fried jalapenos or a clear, refreshing tomato and watermelon gazpacho (both $8), you’re in for culinary rapture. The drop-dead delicious menu boasts influences spanning from Canada to Chile and is paired with an innovative drink program to match. Enjoy the likes of gooseberry-glazed duck breast ($23), vegan chorizo ($17), seafood asapao ($25) and their sweet-n-strong “Rosy Palmer” (Absolut Wild Tea, house-made hibiscus cordial, fresh lemon juice and lavender rose petals, $12), all under one fuscia-lit ceiling. After your belly is stuffed with irresistible eats and super-strong cocktails, do yourself a favor and make room for the Impossible Cake (chocolate cake topped with flan, $7) and a glass of off-the-menu Canadian Icewine ($13). Then, take two Advil and thank us in the morning.
Reviewed 9/22/2011 |
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