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The Wren: The Bowery may already be bursting with bars, but it better make room for one more because The Wren is nesting on the corner of Bowery and Great Jones St. From the brains behind Wilfie & Nell, the new Gaelic gastropub keeps the upscale simplicity of the West Village fave, sporting plush green banquettes, painted brick walls and pretty glass sconces. The distressed wooden bar’s pouring out pints of craft beers and ciders, but even beer buffs will be tempted to go the cocktail route with warming tipples like the Great Jones (Famous Grouse scotch, black walnut bitters and maple syrup, $12) and a tasty take on the Old Fashioned (Old Overholt, Punt e Mes, cherry liqueur and orange bitters, $12). Booze makes its way onto the food menu too, with beer-cooked cockles and mussels ($12) and Guinness-braised steak and stilton pie ($14). The concise menu boasts gussied-up Irish-inspired bites, like mason jars full of oxtail marmalade ($7) and chicken liver mouse ($6), and fries with malt vinegar mayo so addictive you’ll eat them by the fistfuls ($5). Those wanting to take in The Wren’s rustic, cozy charm will have to brave the crowd at the buzzworthy bar, but good news: they’re opening up a basement lounge come January. At the rate this bustling spot’s going, they’ll need the extra room.
Reviewed 12/26/11 |
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